Buying a Motorcycle Battery

Types of Batteries

Motorcycle batteries are very similar to car batteries in that there are, essentially, two types to consider. Conventional batteries have chambers holding metal plates in an acidic electrolyte solution and require regular maintenance. The other is a maintenance-free battery. This is a liquid-free design that does not require fluid checks and will not leak or damage either paint or chrome. They also offer higher cold cranking amperage, faster recharging times and have better resistance to heat and vibration.

Buying a Motorcycle Battery: Things to Consider

Not all motorcycles use the same sort of battery. There are many models and sizes depending on the model of motorcycle. Some are wet and others dry, some are equipped with a sensor (this has to be replaced with the battery) and others are not. Base your choice on the make and model of the motorcycle you ride. Even then, you may have a number of choices. For example, a visit to www.batterymart.com will show that riders of a Harley Davidson FXD model motorcycle have a choice of three batteries ranging in price from $68.95 to $128.95. How does one choose? There are some basic things you should consider:

• Battery type: Unless the manual states otherwise, a maintenance-free battery should never be exchanged for a conventional one.
• Longevity: If you live in a warm climate or use your bike to make short trips, a battery that boasts a long life is crucial. Short trips mean that the alternator doesn't have much time to recharge the battery while high temperatures can play havoc with the electrolyte solution and components of the battery.
• Starting power: Cold-cranking amps, or CCAs, are a measure of the power a battery has at zero degrees Fahrenheit. This is important, especially in a cold climate, because this is the time engine conditions are at their worst. This is also the situation where battery power is at its lowest. The general rule is this: The higher the CCAs, the greater the overall starting power of the battery.
• Freshness: This isn't just for the produce aisle; it goes for batteries, too. You want a battery that is no more than six months old, based on the shipping date. If you can't find the date, or the shipping-date-code, on the battery yourself, ask someone. They should be able to tell you and if they can't, you might consider buying from a more knowledgeable vendor.
• Check the warranty: You want to find a battery with the longest free-replacement warranty. Most manufacturers offer a one-year warranty on factory defects.
• Battery disposal: Because they contain metals and chemicals that are very dangerous, batteries are normally recycled. Retailers, for the most part, collect old batteries and sometimes, if you don't have an old battery to recycle, they will add what's called a “core charge” to your bill. This charge can usually be refunded when you return to recycle your old battery.

Maintaining Your New Motorcycle Battery

Batteries are a leading cause of failure in motorcycles, receiving less attention than they should because they are often difficult to reach. With a maintenance-free battery, you have nothing to do except keep it clean and make sure the terminals and connections are in good shape. If the lights are dim or you have trouble starting your bike, put it on a charger. It is helpful to trickle charge your battery at least once a month.

These suggestions should be a part of your regular bike maintenance because they will dramatically extend the life of your battery. However, if you have a conventional battery, you will also have to check for corrosion, fluid level, sediment, sulfation and mossing within the chambers after you don your protective glasses and gloves and take the battery to a well ventilated area. Then, once you have ensured that the battery exhaust tube is open and serviceable, firmly replace the battery caps and test the battery with either a hydrometer or voltmeter.

A Word About Storage

You will not often need to be buying a motorcycle battery if you store the battery you have correctly. Too much time on the shelf, temperature, and the storage surface can leave your battery unable to hold a charge. Concrete and metal are conductive and encourage the battery to discharge while in storage. Also, because the electrolyte solution can freeze, which could crack the battery case, the battery should be kept in a place that is always above freezing.

A Word About Charging

Charging your battery is a regular part of battery maintenance but it must be approached with care, especially if you are working with a conventional battery. The main issue is fumes. A buildup of hydrogen and oxygen in the battery or in the charging area can create an explosive hazard. Therefore, the first thing is to loosen the battery vent caps, ventilate the charging area. No one should smoke and sparks and open flames must be put out as they could ignite the fume from the charging process.

• Connect the charger to the battery.
  • Place the positive charger lead to positive battery post
  • Place the negative charger lead to negative battery post
• Plug in or otherwise activate the charger.
• Unplug or otherwise deactivate the charger before removing the battery from the charger.

In Summary

Buying a motorcycle battery can be easily accomplished if you keep your bike make and model, the type of the battery you are replacing, the performance you want and the price you want to pay, in mind. Shop around, check out websites focusing on batteries, and you will find what you need.